Vegetarian and Vegan Guide to Indonesian Food

Indonesia is not the easiest country in Southeast Asia for vegetarians and vegans, but it's far from the hardest. Long traditions of vegetarianism exist through Hindu (especially Balinese) and Buddhist (especially Chinese-Indonesian) communities, and the modern wellness scene in Bali and Jakarta has produced extensive vegan-friendly options. Outside these niches, traditional Indonesian cuisine is meat-and-fish heavy, but many dishes can be modified and several are inherently vegetarian. This guide covers the realistic options.

The starting point

Indonesian cuisine relies heavily on:

• Coconut milk (universal in curries and stews)
• Rice (the universal staple)
• Tempeh and tofu (universally available, central to many dishes)
• Vegetables (huge variety: long beans, water spinach, eggplant, jackfruit, papaya leaves, cassava leaves)
• Sambal (chili-based; most are vegan-compatible but some include shrimp paste)
• Eggs (very common; many "vegetarian" dishes include eggs)

The major non-vegetarian elements:

• Meat (chicken most common; beef, pork, lamb regional)
• Fish and seafood (universal in coastal regions)
• Shrimp paste (terasi/belacan) in many sambals and base pastes
• Krupuk (prawn crackers) — usually contain shrimp
• Fish sauce in some preparations
• Stocks — chicken or shrimp stocks often used invisibly

The shrimp paste issue is the main vegan pitfall — it's in many sambals and base spice pastes, often without obvious labelling.

Inherently vegetarian Indonesian dishes

These dishes are typically vegetarian by tradition; ask about shrimp paste in the sambal:

Gado-gado: blanched vegetables, tofu, tempeh, hard-boiled egg, in peanut sauce. The peanut sauce sometimes contains shrimp paste; ask "tanpa terasi" (without shrimp paste) if vegan.

Karedok: Sundanese raw vegetable salad with peanut sauce. Similar caveat about shrimp paste.

Lotek: similar to gado-gado, cooked vegetables in peanut sauce.

Pecel: vegetables with peanut sauce, Javanese style.

Tahu and tempeh dishes: fried, grilled, stewed, in many variations. Tahu goreng, tempeh goreng, perkedel tempe.

Sayur lodeh: vegetables in coconut milk.

Sayur asem: tamarind vegetable soup. Usually vegetarian; ask about stock.

Urap: vegetables with grated coconut and spices.

Gudangan: similar.

Nasi putih: plain white rice. Always available.

Nasi kuning: yellow rice (turmeric), often served with vegetarian sides.

Bakwan: vegetable fritters, deep-fried.

Risoles: vegetable-stuffed crepes (some have meat; ask).

Most fruit dishes: rujak, es buah, etc.

Indonesian dishes that look vegetarian but aren't always

Sambal in most forms contains shrimp paste; ask "tanpa terasi"

Sayur sop vegetable soup is often made with chicken stock

Nasi goreng vegetarian is usually rice + egg + vegetables, but the sweet soy sauce and base seasoning sometimes include fish or shrimp paste

Krupuk prawn crackers are NOT vegetarian (though there are tapioca-only variants — kerupuk tapioca)

"Vegetarian" claims in tourist restaurants vary in rigour; verify specifics

Balinese vegetarian traditions

Bali, as the only major Hindu region, has the deepest vegetarian tradition in Indonesia. Sources:

• Religious vegetarianism: some Balinese Brahmana families maintain vegetarianism, especially during specific ceremonies
• Ayurvedic and wellness traditions: increasingly common
• The Western expat / yoga community: enormous influence, especially in Ubud
• Balinese ceremonial food: many traditional vegetarian dishes for offerings

Ubud specifically has the largest vegetarian/vegan restaurant scene in Indonesia by some margin:

• Sayuri Healing Food: raw vegan institution
• Clear Café: vegetarian/vegan menu
• Earth Café & Market: vegan, organic
• Alchemy: raw vegan
• The Seeds of Life: raw vegan
• Plant: high-end vegan
• Locavore NXT: contemporary plant-based

Most Ubud restaurants, even meat-serving ones, have substantial vegetarian and vegan menus.

Chinese-Indonesian Buddhist vegetarian

Chinese-Indonesian Buddhist communities (especially Mahayana) include serious vegetarian traditions. Look for:

• "Vegetarian restaurants" (Restoran Vegetarian) in cities with significant Chinese-Indonesian populations: Jakarta, Surabaya, Medan, Pontianak
• Many Chinese-Indonesian restaurants have substantial vegetarian sections
• Mock-meat dishes (made from wheat gluten, tofu, soy protein) are common

Vegan in Indonesia

Vegan is harder but possible:

• Eggs and dairy to avoid: less common in traditional Indonesian cooking than in Indian or European
• Honey, ghee less common
• The main challenges: shrimp paste in sambals, fish stocks, the prevalence of fish/shrimp in coastal areas

Best vegan-friendly destinations:

• Ubud: world-class vegan scene, dozens of dedicated restaurants
• Canggu (Bali): similar
• Sanur (Bali): several vegetarian/vegan options
• Jakarta: substantial Chinese-Indonesian vegetarian + modern vegan options
• Yogyakarta: vegan scene growing rapidly

Outside these, navigation requires more attention.

Practical phrases

Useful Bahasa Indonesia:

• Saya vegetarian = I am vegetarian
• Saya vegan = I am vegan (Western loanword, widely understood)
• Tidak makan daging = I don't eat meat
• Tidak makan ikan = I don't eat fish
• Tidak ada telur = no eggs
• Tanpa terasi = without shrimp paste
• Tanpa kaldu ayam = without chicken stock
• Sayur saja = vegetables only
• Apa ini sayuran? = is this vegetarian?

The concept of vegetarianism is well-understood in tourist areas; veganism less so. The clearest communication is specific: "no meat, no fish, no eggs, no shrimp paste."

Buying ingredients for self-catering

Major supermarket chains (Indomaret, Alfamart, Hero, Ranch Market, AEON, Carrefour) carry:

• Tofu and tempeh (abundant)
• Plant milks (less variety than Western supermarkets)
• Vegan-friendly basics: rice, vegetables, beans, fruit
• Some specialty vegan products in larger Jakarta and Bali stores

Traditional markets (pasar) have abundant fresh vegetables, fruit, tofu, tempeh, and most cooking essentials.

The bottom line

For vegetarians: Indonesia is feasible everywhere with some attention. Bali is easy; Java moderate; outer islands require more flexibility.

For vegans: Indonesia is moderate. Ubud and Canggu are world-class destinations for vegan travellers. Other areas require active engagement and tolerance for some compromises.

Plant-based travel in Indonesia rewards the curious — the variety of vegetables, the tofu and tempeh tradition, the regional specialties, and the wellness scene make this a more interesting destination than it might initially appear.