South Kalimantan

South Kalimantan (Kalimantan Selatan, Kalsel) covers about 38,000 square kilometres of southeastern Borneo, with about 4 million people. The province is dominated by the Barito river delta and the city of Banjarmasin, which until recently was the provincial capital before that role moved to Banjarbaru in 2022. The cultural identity is dominated by the Banjar Malay people, distinct from both the Dayak peoples of the interior and the Bugis and Javanese migrant populations. The province's signature attraction is the morning floating markets — one of the most evocative scenes in Indonesia.

Geography

The province has extensive river-delta and lowland geography in the south (the Barito delta around Banjarmasin), rising to the Meratus mountain range in the centre and east. The Meratus area is the homeland of the Meratus Dayak. The province has substantial coal-mining infrastructure in the east and pulp-and-palm-oil plantations throughout.

Banjarmasin

Banjarmasin (population about 700,000) is the largest city and the cultural centre. Built on a delta of the Barito and Martapura rivers, much of the city is essentially water-borne — traditional houses on stilts, river transport, and the famous floating markets.

The two main floating markets:

• Pasar Terapung Lok Baintan: on the Martapura River about 30 minutes upstream from central Banjarmasin; the larger and more atmospheric. Operates from dawn (around 5am) to about 8am. Vendors in small boats sell produce, breakfast foods, and crafts. The standard tourist experience is to board a boat from a hotel-arranged tour an hour before dawn, paddle out to the market area, and shop or photograph.
• Pasar Terapung Kuin: closer to the city centre; smaller and less photogenic but more accessible.

Other Banjarmasin sights:

• Sultan Suriansyah Mosque: oldest mosque in Kalimantan (16th century)
• Sasangga Banua Cultural Park: Banjar cultural museum
• Bekantan (Proboscis Monkey) sanctuary: at Pulau Curiak, accessible by boat
• Cendana sago palm and food stalls: along the river embankments

Other destinations

• Loksado in the Meratus mountains: bamboo rafting on the Amandit River, traditional Dayak villages
• Pasar Intan Martapura: diamond market (South Kalimantan has been a small diamond producer for centuries)
• Cempaka diamond mines: small-scale traditional diamond digging
• Pantai Tabanio: beach south of Banjarmasin

Culture

The Banjar Malay are the dominant ethnic group (~75%). Their language (Banjarese) is close to standard Malay; their culture combines coastal Malay-Islamic features with riverine adaptations. The Banjarese diaspora across Kalimantan and Sumatra is significant.

The Meratus Dayak in the inland hills are a smaller indigenous group with their own language and traditional religion (Kaharingan).

Religion is overwhelmingly Muslim (97%), generally orthodox.

Practical

• Airport: Syamsudin Noor International Airport in Banjarmasin
• Floating markets: pre-dawn start; book a boat through your hotel
• Best time: dry season May-September
• Climate: hot, humid, equatorial
• River travel: convenient for many destinations
• Religion: conservative Muslim; modest dress appreciated

South Kalimantan is most often visited specifically for the floating markets, which are genuinely one of Indonesia's iconic scenes. For visitors with broader interests, the Meratus highlands and Banjar culture add another dimension.