South Sumatra

South Sumatra (Sumatera Selatan) is a populous southeastern Sumatran province with about 8.6 million people, centred on the riverine city of Palembang. The province is historically important as the site of the 7th-13th century Srivijaya empire, the great Buddhist maritime power that controlled much of Southeast Asian trade. Today it is best known nationally for Palembang's distinctive food (especially pempek fish cakes) and for hosting the 2018 Asian Games, which left the city with substantial sporting and transport infrastructure.

Geography

The province covers about 91,000 square kilometres, with the Bukit Barisan mountains in the west and an extensive eastern lowland of swamps, rivers, and palm-oil plantations sloping to the Bangka Strait. The Musi River — among Indonesia's largest — bisects Palembang and was the historic backbone of Srivijaya's maritime power.

Palembang

Palembang (population about 1.7 million) is the seventh-largest city in Indonesia and one of the oldest in Southeast Asia, with origins dating to before the 7th century. The Musi River runs through the centre, with the iconic Ampera Bridge (1965) connecting the two banks. Notable sights:

• Kuto Besak Fortress: the former Palembang Sultanate fort, now a public space
• Ampera Bridge: the city's emblem
• Kemaro Island: small island in the Musi River with a Chinese temple, accessible by boat
• Songket weaving studios: the famous gold-thread Palembang songket textile
• Pasar 16 Ilir: traditional riverside market
• Bagus Kuning: former Srivijaya archaeological site

The city's reconstruction for the 2018 Asian Games included the new LRT light-rail line (Indonesia's first), substantial road improvements, and the Jakabaring Sport City complex.

The Srivijaya legacy

Palembang was the capital of the Srivijaya empire from the 7th to the 13th century — a Buddhist maritime power that controlled the Strait of Malacca, traded across the Indian Ocean, and hosted major Buddhist learning centres. The Chinese monk Yijing studied there in 671 CE on his way to India and reported that the city had over a thousand Buddhist monks.

Few visible remains survive — Srivijaya built primarily in wood, which the tropical climate did not preserve. The archaeological record is mostly inscriptions, foreign accounts, and the recently-explored Muaro Jambi complex in neighbouring Jambi province. The Palembang area continues to yield finds during construction projects.

Pempek

Palembang's signature dish is pempek — fish cakes (usually mackerel) bound with tapioca starch, formed into various shapes, boiled, and then fried. The variations include:

• Pempek kapal selam: "submarine," with an egg inside
• Pempek lenjer: long cylinder
• Pempek adaan: small ball
• Pempek kulit: made with fish skin
• Pempek pistel: stuffed with papaya

All served with cuko, a dark, syrupy sauce of palm sugar, vinegar, garlic, and chillies. The combination is addictive. Pempek 88, Pempek Candy, and Pempek Pak Raden are well-known Palembang restaurants; the dish is also widely available across Indonesia.

Other Palembang specialties: tekwan (fish-and-shrimp dumplings), model (similar to tekwan with tofu), and mie celor (coconut-noodle soup).

Culture

The Palembang Malay culture is distinct from the rest of Sumatra, with strong Chinese influence (the city had a large historic Chinese trading community), elaborate weaving traditions (songket), and a rich literary tradition.

The Palembang Sultanate (1675-1825) was an Islamic kingdom on the ruins of Srivijaya; its history is documented at the Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum in the city.

Other destinations

Beyond Palembang:

• Pagar Alam: highland resort town with tea plantations and Mount Dempo
• Lahat: archaeological area with prehistoric megaliths
• South Sumatra's lakes: Lake Ranau on the border with Lampung is striking

Most international visitors don't go beyond Palembang.

Practical

• Airport: Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II International Airport in Palembang
• LRT: connects the airport to central Palembang and Jakabaring Sport City
• Best time: dry season (May-September); the wet season produces flooding in low areas
• Climate: hot, humid, equatorial
• Culture: orthodox Muslim majority; modest dress appreciated

South Sumatra is more visited domestically than internationally, with Palembang's food and historical role as the main draws.